Galapagos Travel Blog

We woke up early and had breakfast at our hotel. We met some members of our group and learned that somehow the plans and itinerary had changed, due to the unexpected closure of one of the two airports in the Galapagos. At this point, we didn't have too many details, and weren't sure how the changes would affect our trip.

There were are two flights today, the first from Quito to Guayquil, the largest city in Ecuador. We picked up additional passengers there, and continued to the Galapagos Islands. The islands are located about 1,000 km east of Ecuador, along the equator line. This flight to Guayquil was 30 minutes, and the flight to the Galapagos was 2 hours. Each flight served breakfast, so we were full upon landing, after 3 breakfasts so far.

We landed in the Galapagos at an airport on the Island of Baltra. Baltra is a former US base with a dry, desert-like landscape featuring dust and cactus plants. Not much wildlife to be seen here, but we did see a land iguana cross our path as we entered the airport terminal. After going through security and paying the national park admission fee ($100), our tour guide was not waiting for us. After 10 minutes a guide from GAP arrives, but he is here to pick another group. He says that our guide is Gino, who will be here soon. Gino soon arrives but needs to help some other people with their departing flights. We then left in a small bus for the port, where the tour boat is waiting.

The port at Baltra is just 5 minutes from the airport. There were some benches at the dock, but most of the seats were taken by sleeping sea lions. They weren't too bothered with (or interested in) us, until I sat beside one of them. I guess she thought she should have the whole bench to her self.

We then boarded a small dinghy to take us out to the boat, called the Galapagos Adventurer V. That is actually just the name that the tour company uses for the boat (they rent the boat, they don't own it). The local name of the boat is similar: Galapagos Adventure. The boat is very nice. The interior has nice wood floors and a very nice dining area. Our room is at the back of the boat, which is both good and bad, but mostly good (no complaints). Compared to some of the other rooms, ours had large windows which let in the sunlight, and a small sitting area. Being at the back the boat also means that we are very close to the engine and the generator, each of which can be loud. The boat has a few sun chairs on the foredeck and a semi-covered patio area at the back. We had lunch immediately as the boat left Baltra.

Taken on Mosquera Island. Our first afternoon on the tour and first encounter with sea lions.

Our first excursion off the boat was snorkeling off Seymour Island, not far from Baltra. The water was a little cold, but not too bad. Some members of our group opted for the available wet suit rentals, but we didn't, and it was okay. We saw a number of colorful tropical fish, sometimes in large schools. More fish than snorkeling in Bermuda, but not near as many as in the Red Sea in Egypt. One member of our group found some sea lions while snorkeling but we didn't see any.

From a distance, Mosquera looks like large sandbar rising out of the water. It appears as if the Island, which is small, is a beach of bright white sand. Getting closer, we could see that there was also some black volcanic rock. But the island is very flat and mostly beach. From the boat, I could see Sea Lions on the sand, as well as some bright red things on the rocks (which turned out to be Sally Lightfoot crabs.

At 3:30 PM, we landed on Mosquera Island. There were many, many sea lions on the island. The dominant bull immediately began to bark and assert his authority, showing us who was boss. While most sea lions are friendly and relaxed, we have been advised to stay clear of the dominant bulls. If he thinks you are challenging him, he may just attack. After a few minutes, this bull sea lion calmed done, apart from occasional outbursts of barking.

Every few steps along the beach were sea lions, mostly female sea lions (the "harem") and young sea lions of various ages. The baby seal lions were the most playful, as you might expect. The sea lions are not scared of people whatsoever. Sometimes they react if you get too close, but "too close" is usually measure in inches and not feet.

We also saw our first marine iguanas and sally lightfoot crabs, and a single striated heron.

As we came back to the boat, Pelicans and Frigate Birds were flying all around the boat, swooping down to the water. The kitchen staff were throwing them the scraps, and they were competing for every bite.

The sunset was so-so, due to some clouds on the horizon. The sun sets here at around 6 PM, since we are on the equator line. The dinner was very good, but I am still hungry! They keep the air conditioning, cranked in the dining area, so you need to wear a sweater.